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Depending on the answer, one arrives at a different dish with its own origin story and a distinct historical trajectory producing a particular view of Japan.


None of the dish's origin stories are mutually exclusive, but each is a different way of linking the past to the present. It is clear, then, that each story represents a contrast in emphasis rather than a set of fundamentally irreconcilable facts. This is worth noting because, like all questions about origins, the debate surrounding the roots of ramen reveals the difficulties arising from the open-ended search for the true beginning of any food practice.

The three distinct origin stories concerning the birth of ramen in Japan that have been established by various authors and institutions are as follows.

TOKYO (12 p.m.)

The first and most imaginative originally appeared in food historian Kosuge Keiko's pioneering study of the history of ramen published in This version dates the introduction of the dish to the s and designates Tokugawa Mitsukuni a. The line "Do you not behold this clan crest? The place is deep enough below street level that the windows let in no natural light; harsh fluorescent lamps made everyone look ill.

The walls are greenish-yellow. If you are directing a modern adaptation of The Divine Comedy , shoot the purgatory scenes here. It was in every way the opposite of its surroundings: colorful, artfully presented, sweated over. The tangle of yellow noodles was served in a shallow blue-and-white bowl and topped with daikon, pickled ginger, roast pork, bamboo shoots, tomato, shredded nori, cucumber, bean sprouts, half a hard-boiled egg, and Japanese mustard.

It was almost too pretty to ruin by tossing it together with chopsticks. The vegetables are arranged in piles of parallel shreds radiating from the center to the edge of the plate like bicycle spokes, and you toss everything together before eating. It's bracing, ice-cold, addictive- summer food from the days before air conditioning.

How To Make Ramen

It's a fake Chinese dish made with cheap industrial ingredients, he explains. Later, however, Yamaoka relents. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website.

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Let's Make Ramen!A Comic Book Cookbook by Hugh Amano - Penguin Books New Zealand

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